As a cyclist, you’re probably familiar with your knees and the messages they send when they’re not so happy, like aches and pains. In fact, knee pain is common among cyclists, affecting about 15 to 33 percent of riders, according to a 2018 systematic review published in Open Access Journal of Sports Medicine.

Fortunately, the culprit is often an easy fix. For starters, you may be overdoing it and pushing your body harder than it’s conditioned to, which strains your connective tissues, causing inflammation and pain. Any spontaneous twinges of crank-stopping knee pain may feel like they come out of no where, when actually they’re just the first noticeable symptoms of a long-brewing problem. This generally stems from equipment and/or bike position issues, says bike-fit specialist Michael Veal of BikeDynamics in Warwickshire, England.

“Many cyclists are forever tinkering with their position, looking for that elusive perfect position,” he says. But what feels just right for a few pedal strokes around the block can end up feeling pretty wrong after 70 miles of roads. A good bike fit is essential for preventing most causes of knee pain.

If you’re looking for ways to start addressing your cycling knee pain, try these solutions.

Cycling Knee Pain Symptoms and Remedies

To help you figure out where to start, here are the most common types of cycling knee pain and the ways in which your bike fit may contribute to each symptom.

Pain in the front of the knee

If your knee hurts right on the cap (or patella), it’s typically because of your quads. The four quadricep muscles attach to the shin via the patella, and when you’re pumping your legs, they deliver force across the joint. Very strong quads deliver a lot of force, but your bike can help with this problem. Consider adjusting your saddle height, saddle fore and aft, and/or crank length.

“A saddle that is too low will keep your knee angle too tight at the top of the stroke, which increases the shear forces pulling the patella against the femur, which in turn increases the likelihood of tendonitis and harmful stresses in the cartilage behind the kneecap,” Veal says. “Likewise when the cranks are too long for your leg length, the knee joint is also too tight at the top of the stroke.”

How low is too low for a saddle? “For a quick reference to check if your saddle is the right height, have a seat and rest your heel on the pedal with the pedal in the 6 o’clock position,” says fit specialist and physical therapist Sara Bresnick, founder of Pedal Power Training Solutions in Medford, Massachusetts. “The knee of that leg should be straight. That equates to a 20- to 25-degree knee bend when clipped in.”

Riding with your saddle too far forward also can cause knee pain in the front, says Veal. “Your saddle should be positioned so the tibial tuberosity—or the bony bit below the kneecap—is directly above the ball of the foot, which in turn should be above the pedal spindle,” she says.

Also, be mindful of your form. Big-gear mashing, climbing in monster gears, and hard sprinting (especially if you’re not conditioned for it) can put undue stress on the knee and cause this type of pain.

Pain in the back of the knee

Pain behind the knee is less common than pain in the front, and is generally easier to trace back to a culprit: over-extending the knee, says Bresnick. Your saddle is too high or too far back. “Try lowering the saddle a bit or moving it forward a bit in relation to the handlebars,” she says.

This pain is also more common among cyclists who spend a lot of time on fixed-gear bikes; when you ride fixed, you use your hamstrings to decelerate your pedal stroke, which can put the biceps femoris tendon (a hamstring muscle that runs down the back of your leg toward the outside of your knee) under too much load and irritate it. Giving your legs a break with some freewheeling now and then can also help.

Pain on the inside of the knee

When you feel pain on the inner (or medial sides) of your knees, look down at your feet: Improper cleat placement is often a culprit, says Veal. Your cleat position affects your Q-factor, which dictates how far apart your feet are laterally when pedaling.

Ideally, the spacing should be that the loads from your knees to your pedals are traveling vertically without pushing the knee inward or outward, which stresses the ligaments on either side of your knee and can lead to pain.

Cleats positioned too close to the insides of your cycling shoes increase the distance between your feet, which can stress the inside collateral ligaments and cause pain in the inner (or medial) sides of your knees.

Too much float in your pedals also can cause medial knee pain. A little float—about 4.5 degrees—is all you need to be comfortable and keep your knees from getting stressed.

Pain on the outside of the knee

Pain on the outer (or lateral) sides of the knees is often caused by iliotibial (IT) band syndrome—a stabbing pain that happens when the IT band (a fibrous connective tissue band that runs from the hip along the thigh to the tibia) becomes stressed and inflamed.

“Misaligned cleats that cause the foot to be excessively toed in can cause this,” says Veal. So can cleats that are placed too far to the outsides of the shoes, causing too narrow of a stance on the bike.


Cycling Knee Pain Prevention

Of course, what you do on your bike will also go a long way to promoting or alleviating knee pain. Here are some tips to assure it’s the latter.

Warm Up

Just as with most sports, a little warmup to get blood flowing and muscles primed is a good idea. As a general rule, aim for at least 15 minutes of moderate spinning before you attack the local climb or go hard on the flats.

Focus on Pedal Stroke

Look at video of the pros in action, and you’ll notice their rapid and fluid pedal strokes. Try this drill to improve your pedal stroke: The next time you are going up your favorite climb, use a gear at least two teeth lower (thus easier) than usual. This higher cadence is easier on your joints. Think about making round circles as you pedal, not ovals.

Build Mileage Gradually

Your first ride back after any extended amount of time off shouldn’t be five hours long. Instead, start with a lower mileage and build slowly.

Beware of Change

Your body likes consistency, so when you alter equipment, your knees often protest. Whether you get a new bike, new shoes, new pedals, or change stem length, go easy at first to give yourself time to adapt.

Stay Warm

Riding in 40-degree weather with red, chapped knees is a recipe for trouble. Pros routinely cover their legs in training when the temperature is below 60 degrees—that’s why knee warmers exist!

While each individual’s tolerance will differ, there’s certainly no harm in keeping muscles and joints warm. By using warmers, you can easily slip them off mid-ride if you start to warm up.

Get a Bike Fit

If knee pain persists, consider getting a professional bike fit. And no, we’re not talking about when a salesperson sets your seat height at purchase.

A professional bike fit should be an in-depth experience with a professionally trained fitter that includes an interview process, off-bike flexibility testing, and on-bike measurements and adjustments. Yes, it’s an investment (usually around $200 to $300), but it’s worth it to ride pain-free. It could end up being the best money you ever spent on your cycling habit.

Fix Muscle Imbalances

If you’re still experiencing cycling-related knee pain after doing everything mentioned above, including a professional bike fit, it may be caused by muscle imbalances instead—like weak glutes, hips, or core. It’s best to consult with a physical therapist to find the right course of treatment for you.

Headshot of Selene Yeager
Selene Yeager
“The Fit Chick”
Selene Yeager is a top-selling professional health and fitness writer who lives what she writes as a NASM certified personal trainer, USA Cycling certified coach, Pn1 certified nutrition coach, pro licensed off road racer, and All-American Ironman triathlete.